Everything I Learned about Dim Sum I Learned From my Mom
Five Rules on The Art of Ordering Dumplings.
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Picture this: I’m eight years old, wide-eyed and barely tall enough to see over the tables, standing smack in the middle of a three story, bustling dim sum palace in San Francisco’s Chinatown. It’s our first trip to the West Coast, and when asked if we would prefer quiet corner, my mom steps up — no hesitation. She says that we would like to sit right in the middle of it all, deep in the heart of dumpling chaos. Carts flying, steam rising, and every table buzzing with action. That moment? It wasn’t just a meal, it was a masterclass in how to experience food — front and center, fully immersed. It seared itself instantly into my brain, kicking off a lifelong obsession with dim sum and dumplings.
Fast forward to New York, where Chinatown became my playground, and eventually to LA, where the San Gabriel Valley — dim sum heaven on Earth — practically sits in my backyard. I couldn’t get enough. Inspired by Zack Brooks and his legendary Lucky Peach dumpling crawl from 2015, I started my own annual tradition — a pilgrimage to track down the best dumplings and dim sum joints the Valley had to offer. Armed with a few hungry friends, a loose waistband, and endless curiosity, I picked up a few tricks along the way. So here it is, my five rules to crushing the dim sum game.
Rule 1: Get There Early
Look, I get it — dim sum can technically an all-day affair. Maybe you find yourself with a sudden shumai craving at 7:30 PM and, hey, I’m not judging, I’ve been there myself. But if you want the real deal, the freshest, most piping-hot dumplings straight out of the kitchen, you need to roll in first thing in the morning. There's a certain energy that exists only in those early hours — the carts are brimming with steaming baskets, the servers are hustling with purpose, and the whole place has this unspoken rhythm that’s impossible to replicate later in the day. It’s a scene. Plus, showing up early gives you the chance to stretch a long, lazy breakfast into a drawn-out lunch, seamlessly. No rush, no pressure. Just baskets on baskets, stacked one after the other. And believe me, there’s something truly special about being part of that dim sum sunrise while the rest of the world is still trying to figure out their first cup of coffee.
Rule 2: Roll Deep
Now, don’t get me wrong — there’s something meditative about solo dim sum runs. I’ve had plenty of zen-like moments alone at NBC Seafood, pondering life’s big questions while working through a plate of turnip cakes. But if you’re truly on a mission to sample the spectrum, to dive deep into the dumpling abyss, you need a crew. Roll deep. I’d say six to eight people is the golden ratio. When you’ve got a solid squad with you, the dim sum experience transforms into a team sport. You strategize. You eye different dishes with a knowing nod, making sure everyone gets a taste of the staples (shoutout to the barbecue pork buns) while leaving room for the classics (chicken feet, anyone?). There’s something about sharing with a group that just makes everything taste better. It’s the camaraderie, the shared joy of discovering the perfect bite, and knowing you’ve got people to back you up when you inevitably order way too much.
Rule 3: Sit in the Heart of It All
This tip comes directly from my mom, and believe me, she knew how to maximize a dim sum experience. If the action is the jiaozi, then there’s no place to park it than the center of the room. The carts crisscross the room like they’re on a mission, and if you’re smack dab in the middle, the dumplings will come to you. It’s like being rinkside at a hockey game; you don’t just watch the action, you feel it. It’s the perfect position for those who like to be in control of their dim sum destiny. You’ve got eyes on every corner of the room, so you know when the fresh cheung fun are making their rounds, and you can see when the har gow hits their floor. Plus, you get the added bonus of being in the thick of the restaurant’s hum — the noise, the steam, the smells — it all swirls around you like a dumpling-fueled dream.
Rule 4: Respect the Cart, Command the Cart
There’s a fine art to dealing with carts, and my mother taught a masterclass. On one hand, you’ve gotta be respectful. The people pushing those carts are pros — they know the game, and they’ve got no time for hesitation. But on the other hand, you can’t just sit back and expect them to hand-feed you dishes. You’ve gotta establish a presence. If you don’t make it clear you’re in the game, the carts will breeze past you like you’re invisible. And that’s a fate no dim sum lover should endure. The trick is to strike a balance. Be polite, but assertive. Smile, wave, and make your intentions known. You don’t have to be a regular to get what you want, but you do need to show a little initiative, and don’t be afraid to pass on a dish if it’s not calling your name. That’s the beauty of this meal — there’s always more coming. Always. If you play it right, you can have a steady stream of baskets delivered to your table without ever breaking a sweat. Just remember to give the cart-pushers their due respect — they’re the true MVPs of the meal.
Rule 5: Don’t Panic-Order
This is where day player dim sum-goers tend to slip up. The carts come fast and furious, and the temptation to grab everything in sight is real. I get it — that panic is powerful. But trust me, dim sum is a marathon, not a sprint. There will always be more carts, more gailan, more buns. Start with a few solid choices to get everyone at the table satisfied, then pace yourself. You can always wave down another cart for that extra round of sesame balls once you’ve settled in. It is about enjoying the experience, not racing through it. Take your time. Savor each dish. And for the love of all things good and steamed, don’t forget to ask for the specialty menu. That’s where the hidden gems live — the dishes you won’t find on the regular cart rotation.
At the end of the day, dim sum is an art form. It’s about balance — of flavors, of pacing, and of sheer enjoyment. Play it right, and each bite becomes a masterclass in indulgence. So grab your friends, make some merch, grab a large table, and let the dumpling dance begin.
Host Darin Bresnitz sits down with Mike Trout, the executive director and founder of The Chef Conference, which is coming to Los Angeles on October 21st at the ChowNow headquarters. They discuss why Mike chose to bring the conference to LA, as well as the diverse mix of topics this year, including kitchen leadership and mental health, and what attendees can expect to eat at the event. Tickets are on sale now, with a link available in the episode write-up. Then the show dives into the archives with Color Collage, who visited the studio and transformed their sampling of MP3s into a sweeping cacophony of beautiful indie songs.
Darin this just warms my heart, son ❤️. Here’s to many more happy Dim Sum adventures ❤️
Loved these rules, & that your mom taught you well! Fully agree! 💙